To many people, the resurgence of downtown Napa can be dated to the day that Greg Cole opened his chop house. The proprietor of Celadon (which has just moved a few blocks south) took a big step when he moved into the renovated the William-Kyser Building (circa 1886) near the Opera House, itself now under the final stages of renovation.

Despite the culinary revolution that is synonymous with the Napa Valley over the last decade or two, steak houses – or chop houses – have been in short supply. With the opening of Cole’s, the Valley finally had a world class restaurant that was not afraid to serve beautiful cuts of dry-aged beef, including a big 20 ounce Porterhouse, big martinis and offer the side dishes as just that, sides. You order a steak, you get a steak. You want Creamed Spinach or Broccoli with Hollandaise or the truly magnificent Chop House Hash Browns with Onions, then you order and pay for them one by one. And judging from the crowds that fill the industrial-historical-chic restaurant’s two levels every night, that seems to be just fine with the patrons.

In addition to the steaks there are Veal Chops, a beautiful Full Rack of Lamb that is perfectly prepared, Atlantic Salmon, Lobster at times, and for the non-meat-eater, a Short Stack of Rosemary-Scented Portobello Mushroom Caps. Appetizers include a refreshing Grilled Mexican White Prawn Cocktail, Oysters Rockefeller (how could they not?), a Lobster and Shrimp Bisque in Puff Pastry and a very generous Maine Peekytoe Crab Cocktail. There is a full selection of salads as well, but our favorite is the Classic Wedge of Iceberg Lettuce, Cherry Tomatoes and Maytag Blue Cheese Dressing. If anyone does this classic better, it is news to us. Desserts follow the same philosophy - with Pecan Pie, Cheesecake and a Bananas Foster that is big enough to share.

The wine list is not surprisingly full of big red wines, many of them hard to find, such as the 1998 Pahlmeyer and the 1999 Karl Lawrence Cabernet, and there are also excellent wines by the glass and an admirable selection of dessert wines plus Port, Madeira and Sherry.

Cole, taking some classic recipes, an old building made new again, and a deft hand in the kitchen, has created a classic of his own in Cole’s Chop House. Open for dinner only.

It would be a shame if only guests of the new 186-room Lodge at Sonoma, just blocks down from the Sonoma Square, were the only ones to enjoy this delightful restaurant. With its wood-fired oven, herb garden in front of a wall of French doors (the special project of Sous Chef Mark Sandoval), casual-comfortable style and the inspired menu and cooking of Executive Chef Michael Bilger, it should be a culinary destination for anyone visiting the area.

With a wine list that matches the adventuresome menu, and plenty of half bottles and fine wines-by-the-glass, there are ample opportunities to try a variety of combinations of food and wine pairings.

The Torchon of Foie Gras with Roasted Pear, Toasted Brioche and Blackberry-Raspberry Sauce or the classic Oysters Rockefeller are worthy starters, as are the subtle, crispy Portabella Fritters with Garlic Parmesan Aioli. For salads, Pecan Crusted Soft Shell Crab or the Duck Confit Salad with Bing Cherries are both sensations.

For entrees, one night there was an oven roasted Dourade that was filleted tableside and served with Salsa Verde, as well as a Molasses Brined Quail. Niman Ranch Lamb Three Ways and a superb Niman Ribeye with Bleu Cheese Gratin that was deep, rich and complex. All fresh meats at the restaurant are hormone and antibiotic free.

Desserts from Pastry Chef Les Carmona are equal to the rest of the ever-changing menu, and are best enjoyed with a late harvest wine or a nice port. Service is friendly but professional and the atmosphere encourages lingering over the last drop of Late Harvest Zinfandel and a final bite of dessert.

When chef-entrepreneur Charlie Palmer announced that he was going to open a culinary outpost in the town of Healdsburg, part of a twenty million dollar (plus) project that included the stunning new Healdsburg Hotel, the whole culinary world took notice. The first thing Palmer and his kitchen crew did was search out local growers and suppliers for everything from beef to beets, lettuce to lamb. The result is an ever-changing menu that relies on the finest offerings from one of the state’s most diverse agricultural regions. The same attention to detail was applied inside the restaurant, from everything from linens, silver and glassware to the dramatic design of the main dining room with its vaulted ceiling and wall of glass facing the street and a casual dining patio that looks onto the town’s handsome (and active) square. Many of the servers relocated to be a part of this new restaurant, and their experience shows. Even the newcomers on the staff make up for the occasional misstep with ready smiles and unfailing good humor.

Not surprisingly for a star of New York and Las Vegas, Palmer’s menu offerings are more than a little sophisticated, with a tower of Salmon Tartare, Cucumber and Tobiko Caviar here, a touch of showmanship there. And for the most part it works, though one night the Foie Gras with Brioche and a Peach Broth came in a bowl so large that the spoon kept slipping into the broth and the bread plate ended up being used to hold it between bites.

Entrees, be they fish, fowl (the Liberty Duck is already a classic item on the menu) or meat, are less intricate than the starters, which is a nice contrast. Flavors are straightforward and put a spotlight on the quality of the ingredients. Side dishes are presented in the same manner, and are all the better for it. The wine list has a wide range of excellent offerings from wineries nearby, including a Rafanelli Merlot by the glass that is worth the price of admission all by itself. In fact, all the wines by the glass are worth your consideration.

The dessert philosophy seems to be a bit schizophrenic, with some desserts amazingly complicated (this is not to say bad, not at all, though they are described in amazing detail) or very, very simple. We have to admit, at the risk of sounding plebian, that our favorite was the selection of all four house-made sorbets and four ice creams. They were each a bit smaller than a golf ball, and were presented in a frozen chrome server that resembled nothing so much as a small scale Eight Ball Rack. And they were delicious. All in all, Dry Creek Kitchen is a worthy – a shining – addition to the continually evolving dining scene in this vibrant part of the Wine Country.