N/V Domaine Chandon, Étoile, Rosé

Chandon gave this sparkler a special name (French for star), and it lives up to its reputation. A nice salmon color, the wine gives off a nutty, yeasty nose, has a fine mousse (those little bubbles), and was liked by all. A Rosé is not as common as I would like; this wine offers delightful fruit (strawberry jam being caught by myself and Mark), a nice toasted nut and nutmeg mid palate and a long finish! Again, a mix from Napa and Sonoma with the majority a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend, this wine was a hit with our morel mushroom and leak toast, baked apples with gorgonzola, and smoked mackerel and onion tarts. Chandon produces both this Rosé and a non-Rosé brut under the Étoile label—both are good, but if you ask me, I say grab the Rosé and toast the stars!

David: full glass Mark: 3/4 glass

This vintage dated Brut is a blend of fruit from both Napa and Sonoma county. Mark notes the baked bread aroma and a hint of pear and almonds. He was taken with this blend; we both thought the quality quite good, and the nice acids made this a food friendly wine. I found the simple flavors and light nose pleasant, but wished for a bit more substance at this price. We sipped this against a winter squash casserole with seared greens and crunchy bread. We agreed with the panel that the wine paired well, and the consensus was this is a bottle of choice to take to a restaurant or pop on the next special night!

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 3/4 glass

Chandon, the first sparkling wine house in Napa to carry a French pedigree, continues to deliver wonderful wine (and incredible food!) from its many offerings. This single vineyard Blanc de Blanc (literally “white from white”) showed good bubbles, a nice toasty nose, and a clean finish that we all enjoyed. Mark was happy to see Chandon return to the vintage-dated sparklers and found the wine held sweet notes of fruit and a warm yeasty mid-palate. I enjoyed the still youthful flavors and thought the wine finished more on the sweet side (which the panel enjoyed more than I). We started with this wine and bruschetta and salt cod brandade. The wine had the acid and fruit to meet this appetizer well. Available only at the winery, this is a wine worth trying.

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 3/4 glass

This is the stalwart Chandon release: the Brut style that seems to define its vineyards and this winery. It had a clean warm nose; Mark said hazelnuts and bread, I said toasted wheat and a hint of citrus. But we both said “Great!” This Brut had a real creamy texture, the panel notes ranked it highest of the Chandon wines we tasted (!), and Mark and I agree this is a nicely complex sparkler. Pan seared salmon on a bed of pumpkin and acorn squash put this wine in its proper context: food is its friend! We all enjoyed this bottle to the last drop. We suggest you pick up a bottle without delay.

David: 3/4 glass Mark: 3/4 glass

Though not a true “Napa” wine (the label states California, so the grapes came from points beyond our county), this sparkler gives great value for its price. When you are looking to throw that inevitable big bash, this is a handy bottle to have around. Clean, crisp and light, it gives you a fine glass for a light and fun event. Mark thought the wine had a nice texture, soft hints of toast and nuts, and a creamy finish. I found the sweet notes more a distraction and felt it lacked the real finesse of our other bottles. We snacked on garlic chips, fried sardines and tempura shrimp. Our simple Brut held up well, with enough acid to hold its own. For the price we could not fault this sparkler and you are well served in stashing a case away for the inevitable.

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 1/2 glass

Schramsberg became nearly mythic in its renown as the pioneer in Napa in producing fine sparkling wines. Jack and Jamie Davies were true visionaries back in 1966 and they paved the way for the future success of our bubbling industry. Jack is gone now but his family carries on with evident pride.

The reserve is an 80/20 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and from the moment you pop the cork, the notes of fruit (dark cherry), yeast (a rich toasted brioche), and age (a buttery/butterscotch character) fill the air. Mark was taken by this wine, and liked its nutty and full body. He liked the acids and felt this needed two more years to really show itself off. I agreed and found the mouthfeel so pleasant that I had to pace myself for fear of downing too much. We dined on roast halibut over wilted greens with a blood orange vinaigrette. The wine gave added dimension to the meal and we even sipped it into dessert. A grand wine and one we all enjoyed.

David: full glass Mark: 3/4 glass

J Schram, the namesake to the Davies’ property (Jacob Schram built the winery in the 19th century), is their premier label with a price to match. This wine, with all the hallmarks of the reserve wine, gave a distinctly drier and more austere approach to its subject. I found the wine right up my alley: rich nose, distinct notes of its yeast and age, a bit of flint and the dry tight finish that spoke of a long life in the bottle. Mark also liked this, with his notes of the more European approach in its reserved, less forward palate. Oft times Napa Valley can be ill suited for producing a classic French style sparkler, with our tendency to over- ripe, over-abundant fruit. But J Schram hits a mark close to its French counterparts. Matched with our lamb loin and curry rice the wine clearly showed how it could open up against foods of all types. Clearly a label to watch in the coming years, I only hope the price can be held just below the stratospheric.

David: full glass Mark: full glass

Mirabelle is Schramsberg’s entry into the low cost sparklers with great quality-to-price value. This offering is from the North Coast appellation (the only way to get a low-cost sparkler in volume is to go outside Napa County), which contains Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties. This wine is a simple, straightforward sparkler. Full of fruit with a clean oak edge to it, Mark caught fig and citrus notes which he likened to crémant style (just with more bubbles). I liked the fruit and thought this wine pleasant enough (but why do these lower cost sparklers all finish in the sweet range?). With our dessert tray of chocolates and pastries Mirabelle was a fine companion.

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 1/2 glass

Artesa - originally named Codorniu – chiefly produces still wine though originally it produced mostly sparkling. It still crafts a bit of the bubbly, just not as much as before. If this is not too confusing, know that this wine is a stylish entry in the sparkling mix. Mark found the wine to have a nice fruit and acid balance, and thought at the price it had great potential. I liked the nice, clean finish without a too-cloying sweetness. Against our minced chicken in lettuce cups the wine did nicely, with just enough fruit to complement the chicken. Another wine in the right price range to make it a party choice!

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 1/2 glass

Hans Kornell, a name with deep roots here, had a hard time adapting to the changing palates of American wine drinkers as we graduated from Cold Duck to true champagne. But this is a name to look for again. We were pleasantly surprised by how the panel took to this sparkling wine. It has that delightful hint of pink and a warm nose that grew in the glass. Mark found himself enjoying this wine more than expected, and was taken by the tropical fruit and dry body. I, too, caught myself in ever more enjoyable tastings as I found the wine to hold a nice balance and a crisp finish. It met our dish of pork loin and stewed fruit and they became fast friends. This is a wine to look for—we certainly will!

David: 3/4 glass Mark: 1/2 glass

Mumm Napa Valley has produced its top of the line bubbly, DVX (pulled from the last name of its founder, Guy Devaux). Mark and I had similar notes on this wine: rich, creamy, full of the toasty nutty character of a true grand champagne. Mark was more taken, and found the wine in perfect shape to drink now. I liked the style as well, and thought it more ripe and fruity than my palate prefers. We dined on baked mussels and oysters in a kelp broth and this bottle was a true hit! Elegant and refined, you won’t go wrong if you find this on a wine list.

David: 3/4 glass Mark: full glass

A classic Blanc de Blanc, this wine offers a nice crisp package of flavors. Mark caught vanilla, citrus and a flinty mid palate. I tasted the same with a light apple and almond note. We ate a hearty soup of roast vegetables and corn dumplings that this wine added nuance to. A fine effort and reasonably priced, this is a nice wine in the mid range of cost and quality. A good one to bring to your next dinner invite.

David: 1/2 glass Mark: 1/2 glass

A note on the ratings:

Not really worth getting a glass dirty. Insipid, uninspired or poorly-made.

A wine with the most basic of qualities, one that would not merit much more than passing attention.

A good drinking wine, one that is fine for casual events and simple pleasures.

Very nice wine, worth the price and great for any occasion.

Top rank. Great varietal characteristics, knock-out qualities (often with a knock-out price).