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Hard rains in the Napa Valley bring out more than green hills and
winter birds. Like the swallows to Capistrano, Bay Area television
reporters make their annual Wine Country pilgrimage to perform their
periodic flood stories.
The image beamed back to urban viewers is always the same: film
of the obligatory vineyard with a foot or two of standing water.
The commentary is choked with concern for the wet vines, the future
of next years Cabernet and Californias $33 billion wine
industry. But locals know better. The vines are sleeping during
winter months, dormant and safe from natures hardest blows.
During this period its difficult not to feel the sense of
peace and tranquility they bring to our valley.
But dont let their blanket of calmness fool you. Theres
a whirlwind of activity behind the scenes as winery workers put
last years harvest behind and prepare for spring. Growing
up in the wine industry I remember January and February as a time
for sharpening, pruning, trellising, staking, racking and learning.
Grinding stones spin overtime to sharpen pruning shears, choppers,
tillers, hoe plows and disc blades.
Wilcox Tractor Company used to be the only farm equipment store
in town; it stood where the new St. Helena Olive Oil Company is
in Rutherford. As a young man I remember working there as well as
at Beringer and how busy we were in the winter months getting everything
ready for pruning and tractor season.
Contrary to some beliefs, those beautifully manicured rows of vines
dont look that way for the benefit of visiting photographers.
Theres an art to properly pruning vines during the winter
months to ensure the highest quality of grapes. It takes ten workers
roughly two hours to prune 700 vines, the equivalent of a single
acre. With more than 32,000 acres of vineyard in Napa County the
work is staggering. Like a rose bush, each vine is pruned individually
depending on its shape and strengths. The more wood that is removed
- pruned - the more vigorous the regrowth. After pruning comes the
never-ending job of tying the cordons onto the trellising wires
and retying the shoots after they grow.
Between rainstorms youll see workers taking advantage of
the soft soil by driving in stakes for new vineyards. Hundreds of
acres require replanting each year due either to disease or vines
that have simply run their course. It takes three years for new
vines to bear their first small harvest and many varietals reach
their prime only after 25 or 30 years, about the time aging begins
to affect their yield.
The majority of the winter work is probably never seen by the public.
Thousands of wine-filled barrels are being emptied, cleaned, dried
and refilled by hand (called racking). And many who work in the
wine industry use the winter to continue their education in viticulture
at both our local Napa Valley College and at UC Davis, to keep up
with the latest environmental regulations and research.
Unlike other business classes, these professors know better than
to teach how to make a product faster or cheaper. Instead they teach
us the influences, both great and small, of man and nature on the
grapes, and on the importance of knowing your neighbor and having
respect for each season of the year.
U.S. Representative Mike Thompson represents
Californias First Congressional District, which includes Napa
and six other Northern California counties. He is a native of St.
Helena.
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