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The Zin is In |
By David Graham & Mark Lesti
guyonwine@hotmail.com |
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1999 Frog's Leap ($22)
1999 Newlan, Napa Valley ($22)
1999 Green & Red "Chiles Mill Vineyard" ($24)
1999 Franus "Mount Veeder, Brandlin Vineyard" ($28)
1999 Chateau Potelle "VGS" ($55)
1998 Raymond Reserve ($21.50)
1999 Frank Family Napa Valley ($30) |
| 1999 Frog's Leap ($22) |
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Aside from a fun name and the "ribit" printed on their
cork, Frog's Leap delivers great wine. Their Zinfandel is one of
these: nutmeg, cherry, white pepper and sweet notes of blackberry.
I liked the deep color and the tobacco and spice notes, while Mark's
notes echoed those of the panel: blackberry and oak, a nose of old
spices and a warm, white pepper finish. We sampled this one with
a caramelized onion and blue cheese tart with roasted granny smith
apples. The match was sublime, with the Frog's Leap Zin adding greatly
to the enjoyment.
DAVID: 1/2 glass MARK: 1/2 glass
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| 1999 Newlan, Napa Valley ($22) |
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Newlan has been known for doing Zinfandel well for some time and
this vintage shows why. Deep color, a full nose of berry and brambles,
nice mouth feel and that good, clean finish
A good wine with
panel notes of pepper and tannins with nice fruit. Some thought
the wine hard on the edges but Mark noted that this vintage was
rough on some vineyards. We snacked on appetizers of scallop, pancetta
and spinach on polenta wheels. This not-so-obvious pairing gave
our wine a real boost, with the slightly salty pancetta adding nuance
to this wine!
DAVID: 1/2 glass MARK: 3/4 glass
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| 1999 Green & Red "Chiles Mill
Vineyard" ($24) |
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From the new Chiles Valley appellation, and oft overlooked by visitors,
this Green and Red rendition was a winner! The Chiles Valley (and
its hillsides) produces ripe fruit with pepper, cinnamon, clove
and nutmeg notes. This wine has the potential to age well and several
tasters made note of its tight structure. Mark thought this less
ready to drink than I, but we both liked its potential
We
matched it with root vegetables and red snapper in a spicy tomato
salsa. With food this Zin got great reviews! Mark still says lay
a few down for aging; I say just decant it an hour before dinner
and enjoy it tonight!
DAVID: 1/2 glass MARK: 3/4 glass
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| 1999 Franus "Mount Veeder, Brandlin
Vineyard" ($28) |
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Peter Franus continues his tradition of searching out great vineyards
and producing stunning wines. This Zin felt youthful and I liked
the toast, Bing cherry, and full tannins. Mark noted the rich nose
and felt the pepper notes were on the high side. We both agreed
this shall age well. We all sat back and enjoyed this wine set against
a brace of game hen with truffled potatoes. As the night progressed
we enjoyed it even more and our panel gave high marks to this effort
as a great food wine.
DAVID: 3/4 glass MARK: 3/4 glass
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1999 Chateau Potelle "VGS" ($55)
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One cannot review this wine without commenting on the label. Suffice
it to say "VGS" is a term reserved for those duly proud
of their "stuff" and salty enough to say so. This Very
Good Stuff (actually not exactly what the initials stand for) is
indeed that: Very good! A knockout nose with blackberry, cedar,
plums and jam, the wine is a deep purple in the glass, exploding
with flavor once sipped. The panel enjoyed this wine and notes of
balanced tannins; well-blended acid and a bright finish were on
many cards, with Ashley noting, "the bottle is cool."
Which, we must agree, it is. Mark and I came to full agreement on
this one: GET IT! With Chris' braised lamb shank "mutha"
on saffron rice, we had a great meal! This is some "VGS"
no understatement here.
DAVID: full glass MARK: full glass
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| 1998 Raymond Reserve ($21.50) |
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For Raymond, this marks a great return engagement: their first
Zinfandel in some time, and in their reserve designation
And what a way to come back! Fruity and soft, this was a refined
Zin that felt fun to drink. Mark was more taken with this wine.
He noted the soft tannins, the zesty body and overall felt that
it was well balanced. I also liked this wine quite a bit, but had
a greater expectation from the "Reserve" designation.
As nice as it is the finish was just too soft and delicate for me.
The panel was more in agreement with Mark and there is no doubt
that this wine does deserve attention. With wild mushroom risotto
and Spanish mackerel the wine gained a nice roundness that fit the
roasted fish perfectly.
DAVID: 3/4 glass MARK: 1/2 glass
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| 1999 Frank Family Napa Valley ($30)
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Frank Rombauer has set this wine under two family names and it
is a great wine indeed. The nose is all about what a true Valley
Zin can hold: fruits and leather, pepper and spice. At 14.9% alcohol
it has the hot and zippy mouth feel that has come to mark wines
under this imprint. Mark caught more wood notes (cedar and oak)
than I, but we both got hit with the big body this Zin holds! Against
our barbecued oysters, mussels, sausages and onions you could not
ask for a better pairing. The wine finished nicely and we especially
liked the hint of cloves.
DAVID: 3/4 glass MARK: 1/2 glass
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A note on the ratings:
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| Empty |
Not really worth getting a glass dirty. Insipid, uninspired or
poorly-made.
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| 1/4 Full |
A wine with the most basic of qualities, one that would not merit
much more than passing attention.
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| 1/2 Full |
A good drinking wine, one that is fine for casual events and simple
pleasures.
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| 3/4 Full |
Very nice wine, worth the price and great for any occasion.
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| Full |
Top rank. Great varietal characteristics, knock-out qualities (often
with a knock-out price).
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